Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2017

Scene setting: A series of key rings on a metal chain served as the invitation to the show, held at the Cité de la Mode et du Design, an industrial space with a distinctive bright green caged exterior. The key ring motif did not just stop there: models with black fabric skullcaps sported them as dangling hair accessories or earrings.

Mood board: The typically all-black collection (finished here and there with red, green and cream painted details) demonstrated Yohji Yamamoto’s consistent ability to pleat, fold and manipulate fabric into unique and unusual constructions. Looks came with softer ruching and padding that brought new form to the body, and with more architectural fan-pleated silhouettes. Breaking down the collection, there was an asymmetric shirt dress with horizontal pleats, high-waisted worker trousers and a bomber jacket with ribbed details and puffed sleeves.

Best in show: A series of closing looks, marked out using bowler hats as matching accessories, culminated in minimal and exquisitely cut tailoring. Double-breasted, belted or single-buttoned coats brought a more commercial close to the experimental constructions in the collection.