Mood board: Stella McCartney has become an icon for wearable, clean and cool clothes, a distinction that will only crystallise more fully with her new winter collection that played beautifully with pleating, voluminous puffer jackets and oversized wool pants that had drawstring ankles. Everything was yanked, and pulled in just the right direction, giving the clothes a speedy new tug without sacrificing their good looks.

Best in show: The puffer jacket took on a whole new original meaning in this show, morphing from a classic ski jacket to outsized vests, and cropped jackets to huge parkas worn with elegant languid pleated skirts. There were even flared puffer shorts that looked surprisingly convincing.

Finishing touches: McCartney's no-leather rule luckily has no impact on the force of her footwear. This season she cut cool cone shaped heels on low pumps and paired most of her looks with a slip-on pointed toe, rubber sole shoe that created a sporty edge.