Mood board: John Galliano took an eclectic bowerbird approach to his A/W 2016 Margiela collection, marrying a patchwork of military inspired outerwear pieces with overtly feminine, if not dainty, sheer pinafores, pussy bows blouses and billowing gowns. As the show notes read: a collection where the ‘bourgeois and brutal are encrusted within hybrid garments’.

Best in show: Iridescence was liberally sprinkled throughout the défilé collection from a Lurex pleated skirt that softened Galliano’s khaki officer tailoring with its molten luster, to a number of bias-cut gowns that shimmered with pearlescence. Transparent blouses held the same beetle wing nacreous, along with the Brit’s spun sugar thin pinafores, before a silver Glomesh topped the heavy metal weight in.

Finishing touches: Buckle up: Galliano’s bringing the belt back in a big way with supersized, Western-style hardware that cinched most of his eccentrically layered looks. On foot it was jazzy Ziggy Stardust platform boots, tricked up penny loafers or flashy silver hiking boots.