Proenza Schouler A/W 2016
The boys explored notions of control and release using the work of artists Richard Serra, Frank Stella and Robert Ryman as touchstones
Mood board: As an exploration of the notions of control and release, Proenza Schouler's latest collection looked to American art from the 1960s and 1970s for inspiration. Soft, knitted pieces expressed ideas of reconstruction by means of oversized laces, different iterations of tying and wrapping to give shape and form.
Scene setting: Using work by artists such as Richard Serra, Frank Stella, Robert Ryman and Robert Smithson as touchstones, it was only apt that the label commandeered the 5th floor gallery space of the Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum. Square, silver foil poufs, used as seating, were scattered in coil-like formations in the expansive space, much like a work of art themselves.
Best in show: Designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s ability to create new forms out of familiar fabrics made for a truly memorable collection. Whether it was exploiting negative space in the form of subtle cut-outs in knitted garments, which revealed hints of an arm, a shoulder or the waist, and then were laced back together with thick black canvas, or the final series of embroidered dresses that seems to be constructed from curling strips of ribbon, many of the looks took our breath away. What's more, a limited selection of the new pieces will be available exclusively at the label's downtown store from 18-21 of February.
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Pei-Ru Keh is a former US Editor at Wallpaper*. Born and raised in Singapore, she has been a New Yorker since 2013. Pei-Ru held various titles at Wallpaper* between 2007 and 2023. She reports on design, tech, art, architecture, fashion, beauty and lifestyle happenings in the United States, both in print and digitally. Pei-Ru took a key role in championing diversity and representation within Wallpaper's content pillars, actively seeking out stories that reflect a wide range of perspectives. She lives in Brooklyn with her husband and two children, and is currently learning how to drive.
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