Mood board: Black and navy blue; it sounds like code for a snooze-fest, but the reality is very different at Diesel Black Gold. Sturdy felt wools, quilted nylons and buttery leathers all found cool new life in this sober, mannish palette and were given an extra jolt with feminine cuts like sassy cheerleader skirts.

Best in show: Outerwear has to claim this prize. Case in point: a hefty navy wool coat that featured a cape back constructed in a black matte quilted nylon.

Finishing touches: With brief, A-line skirts skimming the models thighs, the collection could have looked sickly-sweet. Instead it took a utilitarian edgy turn with knee high sturdy motorcycle boots with lace fronts and silver zip backs.