Scene setting: In the high-ceilinged Central Saint-Martins’ Granary Building, where light falls in through glass walls, Mary Katrantzou made the most of reflections by covering her runway with silver foil and filling its finish with silver balloons reminiscent of Andy Warhol’s Factory Flotations. 

Mood board: With country music in the background and colourful rodeo cut-out detailing on boxy herringbone jackets, Katrantzou collection was and ode to the cowgirl – but then a high-octane one with a penchant for patent leather platform Mary-Janes. 

Best in show: When Katrantzou veered into more overtly feminine directions, we saw a very different side to her graphic style. Black pleated chiffon dresses with a colourful butterfly and fantasy print stood out in its singularity and fluidity.