Vetements A/W 2015
Mood board: Mining the streets of the Eastern Bloc, the French collective’s Georgian head designer Demna Gvasalia (formally of Louis Vuitton and Maison Margiela, and a graduate of Antwerp’s Royal Academy) presented a line-up of khaki storm trooper coats, high-waisted acid wash denim and parachute trenches. Everything was oversized by a country mile, from motorcross leather bikers to stretched mohair knits, corduroy tailoring and shearlings, all of which were left raw to drag along the floor.
Best in show: It was the collection’s extreme volumes that made these archetypes interesting, coupled with the unique ways that Gvasalia cut them. Floral tea dresses were sliced in half up the back and inserted with t-shirt jersey; puffers were cut away from the shoulders and subsequently curved out, rather than in at the hem; while most sleeves were at least 30 centimetres too long.
Scene setting: Few would liken the basement of Le Depot, the gay Parisian sex club to a fashion show space, but Vetements is not concerned with maintaining the status quo. Red up and down lights, hose-able concrete floors, wash-and-wear wall tiling and diner-style barstool seating set the spatial story. However, paired up with the show’s casting of ‘models’ scouted from the streets of Paris, London and Russia, you could say the whole experience worked.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Montblanc’s leather goods evolution offers peak style
Montblanc takes design inspiration from its iconic writing archive for new collections of leather goods
By Simon Mills Published
-
Ray Phoenix to rise in Arizona
Ray Phoenix housing project launches, designed by Johnston Marklee, who worked with Lamar Johnson Collaborative and artist Alex Israel, for property experts Ray and Vela
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
The cosmos meets art history in Vivian Greven’s New York exhibition
Vivian Greven’s ‘When the Sun Hits the Moon’, at Perrotin in New York City, is the artist’s first solo exhibition in the USA
By Emily McDermott Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated