Junya Watanabe Man S/S 2017
Mood board: Shoppers flock to Junya Watanabe because of its playful reassessment of archetypal men’s clothes; smart jackets, neat denims and tidy shirts are always at the fore. The S/S collection was shown in a concrete parking garage, festooned with colorful graffiti and was modelled by a cast of gypsy mobsters, some of whom had tattoos painted on for the show. All in all, Watanabe pushed a more relaxed, laid-back look for the season drawing inspiration from the 1998 Serbian farce, Black Cat, White Cat directed by Emir Kusturica.
Best in show: Hybrid garments for the modern man; fine wool suiting had tough biker jacket sleeves attached in leather. Denim jackets – the result of an ongoing collaboration with Levis – had sleeves that were turned inside out, revealing paisley print lining. A double breasted jacket was worn with swagger, the matching trouser finished with an athletic, jersey rib cuff at the ankle.
Team work: Like his early mentor Rei Kawakubo, Watanabe is notoriously singular in his approach. He chooses to forego traditional advertising and retail in favour of collaborations with other brands. Spring embraces multiple collaborations; Levi’s for denim, knitwear from John Smedley and shoes by Heinrich Dinkelacker.
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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