Mood board: Shoppers flock to Junya Watanabe because of its playful reassessment of archetypal men’s clothes; smart jackets, neat denims and tidy shirts are always at the fore. The S/S collection was shown in a concrete parking garage, festooned with colorful graffiti and was modelled by a cast of gypsy mobsters, some of whom had tattoos painted on for the show. All in all, Watanabe pushed a more relaxed, laid-back look for the season drawing inspiration from the 1998 Serbian farce, Black Cat, White Cat directed by Emir Kusturica.

Best in show: Hybrid garments for the modern man; fine wool suiting had tough biker jacket sleeves attached in leather. Denim jackets – the result of an ongoing collaboration with Levis – had sleeves that were turned inside out, revealing paisley print lining. A double breasted jacket was worn with swagger, the matching trouser finished with an athletic, jersey rib cuff at the ankle.

Team work: Like his early mentor Rei Kawakubo, Watanabe is notoriously singular in his approach. He chooses to forego traditional advertising and retail in favour of collaborations with other brands. Spring embraces multiple collaborations; Levi’s for denim, knitwear from John Smedley and shoes by Heinrich Dinkelacker.

TAGS: JUNYA WATANABE