Dries Van Noten S/S 2017
For spring, Dries Van Noten’s artisanal aesthetic assumed the view from Kelmscott Manor in Oxfordshire, the country home of William Morris
Mood board: Dries Van Noten’s house codes are well known. His unwavering focus on relaxed tailoring with sportswear influences, the pinstripes, the camo, the antique embroideries, the graphic prints – all of them were there in the audience at his S/S 2017 show. For spring, Van Noten’s artisanal aesthetic assumed the view from Kelmscott Manor in Oxfordshire, the country home of William Morris. It is a view filled with threadbare tapestries and artfully knitted textiles. The collection used fabrics and volume as ornamentation.
Finishing touches: The clothes were sporty, relaxed and loose. An ode to utopians, libertarians, craftspeople, draughtsmen, textile and ceramic art – the organic, raw and handmade loomed large. Five antique tapestries were photographed and printed onto wide-legged trousers, double-breasted jackets and voluminous outerwear. Denim jeans were also reconstructed and bespoke calligraphy created by artist Pokras Lampas was embroidered tone on tone.
Scene setting: Inside a large concert hall located in the Bercy area of Paris, a huge wall made up of automobile headlights stood as a backdrop to the show. Created by the French theatre company Royal de Luxe, the wall has been touring across Europe in a series of colossal puppet shows and was most recently installed on the Antwerp Theaterplein. The team of inventors, stuntmen, poets and scrap dealers, led by Jean-Luc Courcoult, share Van Noten’s unshakable reverence for the art of craft.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The Brazilian Forest House injects art into a modernist-inspired, contemporary design
The Brazilian Forest House, designed in upstate São Paulo by FGMF, brings together nature and art
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Waiting room inspo: Inside Studioutte’s cinematic Sala D’Attesa at Milan Design Week
Studioutte’s Sala D’Attesa, staged in Nolo during Milan Design Week 2024, was a scenographic interior merging different design sensibilities
By Laura May Todd Published
-
Bang & Olufsen’s Recreated Classics series continues with a CD player revival
Bang & Olufsen’s Beosystem 9000c music system brings the original digital compact disc format back to life and pairs it with the latest in speaker design
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated