Valentino S/S 2015
'Hey baby, take a walk on the wild side.' An Italian rendition of Lou Reed's swinging ode to adventure pumped through the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild yesterday for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli's veritable Valentino 'art safari'. Borrowing from the label's recent couture and resort outings, this vivid menswear collection saw retro wallpaper florals and a menagerie of fantastical birds, beasts and butterflies take foot and flight across military and pyjama-like vestments - their proportions both exaggerated and refined in opulent suede and double cashmere, silk jacquards, and leather-trimmed fine-gauge wools. Staking claim on the wardrobe of 'outsiders and freethinkers', the designers applied such a myriad of decorative elements to fundamental shapes as to cause hallucinogenic transformation. A pea green suede Harrington jacket was turned to reveal a fanning peacock appliqué on its back, along with Dali-esque enamel lapel pins. A field jacket was similarly heavy with mythological brocade featuring giant squid, unicorns and exotic birds. Their ubiquitous camouflage also returned painted in splashes of red across a taupe leather coat, however the new 'camubutterfly' is set for a lavish takeover, swarming across coats and blazers in a dusty print or daring, lustrous embroidery.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Why Bollinger’s La Grande Année 2015 champagne is worth celebrating
Champagne Bollinger unveils La Grande Année 2015 and La Grande Année Rosé 2015, two outstanding cuvées from an exceptional year in wine-making
By Melina Keays Published
-
Lexus installation explores time at Milan Design Week 2024
Lexus brought designer Hideki Yoshimoto’s ‘Beyond the Horizon’ to Milan’s Art Point, part of its ongoing series of collaborations with Fuorisalone
By Nargess Shahmanesh Banks Published
-
Cult 1960s boutique Granny Takes A Trip gets a sustainable reboot
Founded on King’s Road in 1966, ‘radically creative’ fashion store Granny Takes A Trip is being reimagined for a new generation. Dal Chodha takes a closer look
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion
‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
By Mary Cleary Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino Des Atelier Haute Couture sees fashion and art collide
Seventeen contemporary artists enter a dynamic dialogue around dressing to create Valentino’s A/W 2021 Des Ateliers Haute Couture collection
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxation
Milan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021
Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
By Nick Vinson - Art Direction Last updated
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
By Jason Lloyd-Evans - Photography Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated