Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2015
A recent change of the guard at the Margiela menswear department has stirred a beautiful nostalgia in the collections. Yet rather than resembling a caricature of Martin's own work, it is instead a respectful look at soft layered tailoring with obtuse diversions into the avant-garde. This spring took ideas of freedom and movement as cornerstones for a quirky exercise in workwear, uniforms and formality skewed. Opening in chalky tones and closing in a barrage of marigold, mandarin, sapphire and emerald hues, the Maison's gaze shifted from the apocalyptic survivalism of last season towards a playful and boyish attitude. This manifested in the schoolboy play of skin under a double-breasted chesterfield coat or the way tied parachute pants dropped with a second waistband at the hip. Trousers were spliced, half denim half suiting wool, with a trickier version fusing a suit pant with a towelling short and sock. A finale of beaded bodies channelled the spirit of the Artisanal line, emblazoned with varsity symbolism like brilliant tattoos.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
-
Find yourself at Six Senses Kyoto, the brand's breathtaking Japan debut
Six Senses Kyoto opens its doors boasting tranquil, luxurious interiors by Blink Design Group
By Danielle Demetriou Published
-
Shigeru Ban’s mini Paper Log House welcomed at The Glass House
'Shigeru Ban: The Paper Log House' is shown at The Glass House in New Canaan, USA as the house museum of American architect Philip Johnson plays host to the Japanese architect’s model temporary home concept
By Adrian Madlener Published
-
Artist Mickalene Thomas wrestles with notions of Black beauty, female empowerment and love
'Mickalene Thomas: All About Love’, a touring exhibition, considers Black female representation
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated