Mood board: Colour vibration, mismatched compositions, textured contrasts: the theme for Véronique Nichanian’s offering for Hermès confirmed the new lust for mix and match fabrics. Season upon season Nichanian never cites a rare film, obscure performance artist or epic trip to the outback as the starting point to the collection - and thankfully so.  Her design motivation is based around the exploration of the very material that is her métier. 

Best in show: Hooded parka jackets upscaled in silky glazed calfskin were exquisitely understated as were, believe it or not, the matching one-pleat trackpants. The company’s long standing artisanal heritage is well acknowledged, but it is their ability to elevate seemingly normal clothes in the most extraordinary luxury textiles that is their real cleverness.

Finishing touches: Throwing the genteel breeziness of the collection momentarily off track was the label’s seasonal iteration of the Bolide Relax weekend bag, which was here appliquéd with a wide-mouthed, sharp toothed grinning shark.