Mood board: At first sight, Gieves and Hawkes’ presentation made use of the heritage house’s usual tropes: models perched on plinths, impeccable suiting and classic shoes. But there was a youthful feel that moved the brand forward for A/W 2016, such as a black and orange brocade suit that exuded unprecedented warmth.

Sound bite: During the bustling presentation at No1 Savile Row, creative director Jason Basmajian explained: ‘We have 243 years of history, so we don’t change overnight. It’s about an evolution. This collection for me was about breaking it down more into the weekend, taking tailoring fabrics and putting them in more sporty models – just a little bit more relaxed. Whether you’re 25 or 65, our guys feel great in the clothes.’

Best in show: Among the distinctly traditional British elements, Basmajian injected international menswear touches such as sneakers with tailoring and chunky soles on dress shoes.