Ermenegildo Zegna

According to Zegna, a couple of key items will add a lot of extra mileage to one's wardrobe next winter. A turtleneck - thin or thick - is absolutely essential. A versatile plaid-happy suit will pep up any dinner party and can be split up and paired with less visually stirring clothing for more straight-laced affairs. Meanwhile, a bit of alpaca - brushed so finely it looks as if it has had a professional blow dry and setting lotion applied at the salon - is the ultimate joy fabric

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna

Ermenegildo Zegna

Jil Sander

The very formal and the very informal collided on the Jil Sander runway where Raf Simons conjured up a nearly all-black universe for his immaculately groomed, fresh-faced models.  Simons is a master of fashion mixology.  Only he could  propose an outfit that is half Berlin sex club (voluminous black leather trousers with cuffs), half debutant date (starched white shirts and neat ties) and make it all look convincing.  Womenswear couture influences were subtle but intriguing - molded hips constructed on suit jackets and full-length black leather trench coats, which cascaded into a sea of ballgown draping from the waist down
 

Jil Sander
 

Jil Sander
 

Jil Sander
 

Jil Sander
 

Burberry Prorsum

The clothes at Burberry - dominated by tip-top suiting, crisp outerwear and double-breasted detailing - were a solid proposal for autumn. But it was the huge range of juicy extras that got us salivating this season. Tweed driver's caps, leather gloves with small metal studs and a variety of cool patchwork and colour block zipped pouches, gave every look a depth of personality. The endless add-ons to the Burberry guy's wardrobe particularly shone with the beach-stripe umbrellas, featuring rugged horn handles slung over the shoulder with ostrich skin rifle straps 

 

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Neil Barrett

The genius of Neil Barrett lies in the effortless way he brings sportswear to tailoring and vice versa.  The pairing is so fine that it’s never a stretch to imagine an outfit that involves putting a metallic sweat shirt under a banker’s suit and covering it up with a wintry toggle coat. Indeed, the discourse on outerwear, a favourite topic for this talented designer, was as rousing as ever on leather-taped trapeze coats, quilted nylon jackets, minimal leather bombers with wool sleeves and fabulous pea coats
 

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Neil Barrett

Bottega Veneta

The fall suiting at Bottega Veneta took a graphic turn with traditional grey wool suits spiked with an overlay of colour blocks. The silk-screen effect made it look as if the models had been half dipped into a tub of paint, or - in the case of shiny appliqués on flannel jackets - shot with a technicolour glue gun. Despite all of this embellishment, Tomas Maier's vision was exceptionally streamlined. Silhouettes were taut and lean, especially on the unusual leather biker jacket-sweater hybrids that clung close to the body

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani presented a fleeting glimpse into oversized proportions - berets were blown up like blimps and muff scarves were swept around the neck in large swathes. Mr. Armani tamed down the exuberance by steering his collection into outlaw territory with large brimmed fedora hats and floor-sweeping hooded overcoats. This was all packaged in a gentlemanly sort of way, with draped ponchos or minimal leather coats accessorised with ponyskin amulets that hung around the neck on leather cords

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani

Salvatore Ferragamo

Classic men's tailoring was at the heart of the Ferragamo's vision for Fall. Polished, buttoned up and frequently double-breasted, models sported immaculately-groomed hair and monochromatic looks. A brilliant navy blue number stood out from the crowd of looks, as did the line-up of head-to-toe burgundy looks which were finished off with square toe boots. The luxe factor was boosted with coats crafted from curly astrakhan and super soft cashmere

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Pringle of Scotland

In hiring Alistair Carr, Pringle has found a pair of hands that are as creative as they are commercially inclined. Carr proposed a fall line up that looked convincingly cool, as well as absolutely wearable - a rare balance to pull off. The monochromatic looks in buttery camel, rust and brilliant navy were sharp, featuring precisely cut layers of turtlenecks, jumpers and overcoats, allowing for an easy build up of colour - seen in combinations such as orange with camel and rust with burgundy. The best looks were those that were most graphic, like the red-checked lined jackets or the knitted ribbon jumpers, which featured blown up black and white herringbone patterns

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland

Vivienne Westwood

Normally we don't start our discourse with hair, but the heads of Vivienne Westwood's models were so intriguingly transformed into icicles and streams of frozen water that we couldn't resist. Hair stylist Elia Piatto created faux snowflakes and ice clusters that either hung from beards and goatees, or were slicked to the sides of their head, as if the model's had recently been thawed out after a long winter freeze. Westwood declared the show a wake-up call to global warming and the panic of today's ice melt. But it was also a non-polemic treaty on wearable clothes from posh pinstripe suits to 'woodchuck' plaid jackets and everything in between

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood

Missoni

The multiple layer concept - shown on so many designers' Fall runways - finds its cosiest home at the house of Missoni. With bulk-free knits as fine as flax, the collection makes it possible for one to wear a skin-clinging overcoat, jacket, jumper and shirt all at the same time without one's mobility being reduced to that of the Tin Man. As cozy and easy as a second skin, the knits bore zigs and zags, plaids, and Prince of Wales checks - all in a muted winter palette

Missoni

Missoni

Missoni

Missoni

Trussardi

It was impossible to count the number of cues pointing to a 1970s high rolling and fast driving lothario on the Trussardi runway, but trust us - there were a lot. The louche posing, smirking and moustaches, not to mention the oversized Ca' Del Bosco magnums that models casually swung in their hands, all set the scene. The look was then crystallised into a sort of retro cliché with bun-hugging, flared plaid trousers, all-corduroy suits, high heels boots, oversized sunglasses and tonnes of hair
 

Trussardi

Trussardi

Trussardi

Trussardi

Prada

Sadly, these images will never convey the full extent of the electrifying live Prada show experience - which featured the likes of Gary Oldman, Adrien Brody and Willem Dafoe strutting down an oversized red carpet runway (as models). That said, even without the high voltage performance, this season’s collection stands on its own as an absolute triumph. At the heart of its ethos was something manically precise. Austere full-length coats - cut close to the body and sweeping the floor – provided the baseline for a severe mood that was undeniably militaristic. Each piece - from crisp white shirts to fitted waistcoats and elegant poplin underwear (worn with knee socks and shiny laced shoes) - was a rigorous exercise in perfection. Pre–war German nationalism aside, Muccia Prada’s razor–sharp vision made these designs a beauty to behold
 

Prada

Prada

Prada

Prada

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Formula 1 car racing was Moncler's theme du jour for Fall, which meant that the racer's jumpsuit took centre stage as the basis for a new silhouette - all of the voluminous padding, however, might pose a few problems for quick exits from the cockpit. Using square quilting patterns, creative director Thom Browne puffed up his one-piece suits, flannel sports jackets and coats to Michelin-man proportions. All the while, he kept his eye on his characteristic crisp palette of fresh white, red and yellow, which was counter balanced by the plays on plaid in soft heather greys

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Calvin Klein Collection

Often seen in accessories, crocodile skin made a rare appearance in clothing in Calvin Klein, where Italo Zucchelli managed the tough task of applying the exotic material onto hooded sweatshirts and compact bomber jackets, creating a luxurious take on hybrid clothing. Sporty backpacks were also covered in the scaly skin, as were the navy trousers. If those pieces break the bank, one can always get a whiff of the haute with the coats fashioned from egg and trapeze shapes. For extra fun, Zucchelli proposed sheer overlays - which resembled women's evening hose - over puffer jackets, as well as a striking digital confetti print that added a colourful splash to fall's dark days

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

Calvin Klein Collection

Gucci

Frida Giannini wanted her models to come across as tormented poets, and dubbed their disheveled elegance as ‘Visconti Grunge’. With hairstyles that looked convincingly unwashed (speedily created backstage for this exercise), Giannini's boys sported extravagant dandy style outfits, which included some lovely floral tinged suits. Meanwhile, the thickly-piled jacquards - found on oversized doctor's bags and black blossom-patterned evening suits - made us think immediately of a 19th century Yankee Carpetbagger searching for a 21st century home

Gucci

Gucci

Gucci

Gucci

Z Zegna

Paul Surridge's debut as creative director of Z Zegna has proven that he's learnt a thing or two about minimal sharp dressing from his former mentor Raf Simons at Jil Sander. Luckily, Surridge flew with his own wings, bringing a cool veneer to clean, well-cut suiting and sportswear.  Classic suits sprouted new, unusual details such as nylon hoods, techno jersey inserts or 3D mesh. Most commendable was Surridge's deft handling of Zegna's impeccable fabrics - leather, wool, tweeds, and full-bodied mohair - which epitomised rich but modern perfection

Z Zegna

Z Zegna

Z Zegna

Z Zegna

Versace

Va-Va-Versace is all we can say. After teasing us last season by returning to her company’s racy roots with flamingo pink baroque prints, Donatella Versace continued on the brash, look-at-me trajectory for Fall. This time, instead of mining territory already well-trodden, the Italian maven assembled something of her own. The red-hot suits glowed as if on fire, but our favourite looks were the gold rivet-trimmed denim and the head-to-toe jumpsuits in eye-popping camouflage prints made from floral blooms

Versace

Versace

Versace

Versace

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani's new trouser silhouette for Fall is a study in the art of over-sizing. The hips are significantly loosened, the pleats deeply creviced into tweed fabric and the crotches are dropped to slacker proportions (this being his top line, the word 'slacker' is of course relative). Armani kept his men on a straight course to serious luxury with the taut top halves that featured slim crocodile jackets, zip-front waistcoats, and shaved rabbit blazers.  Occasionally he got frisky with the outerwear, proposing velvet anoraks and mink car coats that had been shaved into horizontal Venetian blind slits


 

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

Ermenegildo Zegna

According to Zegna, a couple of key items will add a lot of extra mileage to one's wardrobe next winter. A turtleneck - thin or thick - is absolutely essential. A versatile plaid-happy suit will pep up any dinner party and can be split up and paired with less visually stirring clothing for more straight-laced affairs. Meanwhile, a bit of alpaca - brushed so finely it looks as if it has had a professional blow dry and setting lotion applied at the salon - is the ultimate joy fabric


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