With Antoine Arnault heading up the business side and Alessandro Sartori - who cut his teeth at Ermenegildo Zegna for some 14 years - taking care of design, Berluti is about to get bigger, bolder and much more important. And it's no longer just about finely made men's shoes and a few hand-polished 'tattooed accessories'.

Sartori and a brand new team of tailors, plus around 16 different small Italian workshops with know-how in hand-finished tailoring, have whipped up a collection of no fewer than 400 pieces.

This is a serious project, with all the substantial resources Arnault Sr can put behind it, using top-of-the-range fabrics, many specially created for Berluti. And Sartori is the man for the job. We can't wait to get our hands on the 'knickerbocker' flecked cashmere and silk tweedy suits with matching knits, or the four-button, double-breasted, double-faced cashmere blazers with antelope pockets inside.

The shoes are looking fresh after a little clean-up and tweak, with a new sportier group given chunky soles. Bravo, too, for the presentation and the choice casting: part models, part real men. It's refreshing to see the clothes looking so good on guys who might actually be able to buy them, be they 42, 58 or even 72 years old.

 

TAGS: BERLUTI