Alta Roma 2013: an editor’s diary from Rome’s haute couture week

Andrea Provvidenza hit the bullseye at Alta Roma 2013 with the first-ever presentation of coats by his label Lodental
Andrea Provvidenza hit the bullseye at Alta Roma 2013 with the first-ever presentation of coats by his label Lodental. Simple, beautiful updates on the original Loden coat of yesteryear, each one features a gloriously saturated colour.
(Image credit: Elio Rosato - Allucinazione)

Rome's haute couture fashion week may not boast the same big designer names as Paris, but what Alta Roma lacks in high wattage runways, it gains in local charm. The five day event, overseen by Alta Roma President Silvia Fendi, features runway shows by historic Roman couture houses as well as up and coming Italy-based designers looking for a fresh venue for added attention. The real hidden jewel of this event, however, are the doors that Fendi has purposefully opened to the many nooks and crannies of Roman art, culture and artisans. 

The first day, for example, started with a  civilised midday cocktail in Gente - Rome's poshest multi-brand store in Via Babuino - for Sergio Zambon and the Spring collection he designed for Galitzine. Later that night, Andrea Provvidenza made a surprising splash with a presentation of coats by his Lodental label, that brought out the city's coolest young girls. Provvidenza was honoured the same night in a family-style dinner at the home of Ines Musumeci Greco, one of the city's most important contemporary art collectors.

The mood at Alta Roma is decidedly more relaxed than most other fashion weeks; At one point, young designer Caterina Gatta came honking down a small street in her Smart car and swooped me up for a ride to Cameron Silver's Decades book presentation at Galleria O, the city's best design gallery. An entire afternoon and evening was left open for journalists to wander the small cobblestoned streets for the A.I. Artisanal Intelligence project - a gallery walk which small art galleries hosted the work of young fashion and accessories designers.   

This mingling of old and new is what Rome fashion is all about. The organizers rightly shed light on some of the city's best artisans, like famed shirt maker Piero Albertelli and bespoke suit makers Sartoria Ripense. Overseeing the whole operation is Silva Fendi, who every designer in town considers their fairy godmother. This year, Fendi used her global clout to round up red-carpet dresses from a selection of top international designers for her Limited/Unlimited exhibition, and followed it with a raucous, rowdy, dance-filled dinner party that perfectly captured the exuberant spirit of Rome.

The Lodental coats were displayed inside Rome's Santo Spirito church and accompanied by a video that projected streaming neon details onto a mannequin

The Lodental coats were displayed inside Rome's Santo Spirito church and accompanied by a video that projected streaming neon details onto a mannequin.

(Image credit: Elio Rosato - Allucinazione)

Click on the video to watch the Lodental presentation

Marco Giugliano and Nicolò Bologna are a young, Milan-based design team who brought their zany, print-tastic Marcobologna fashion label to Rome

Marco Giugliano and Nicolò Bologna are a young, Milan-based design team who brought their zany, print-tastic Marcobologna fashion label to Rome

(Image credit: press)

The Gallery Apart in Via di Monserrato took part in the A.I. project, hosting handbags

The Gallery Apart in Via di Monserrato took part in the A.I. project, hosting handbags by Badura.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

A metallic python and crocodile clutch by Badura

A metallic python and crocodile clutch by Badura.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

Suede and exotic skin totes

Suede and exotic skin totes by Badura.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

Alta Roma's bespoke tour took us on a journey into the workshops of some of the city's best artisans, like these gentlemen whipping up tailormade suits at Sartoria Ripens

Alta Roma's bespoke tour took us on a journey into the workshops of some of the city's best artisans, like these gentlemen whipping up tailormade suits at Sartoria Ripens

(Image credit: press)

Shirt master Piero Albertelli

Shirt master Piero Albertelli is a legend in Rome and still makes shirts for Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti

(Image credit: press)

Reams of fine fabrics used for Albertelli shirts

Reams of fine fabrics used for Albertelli shirts

(Image credit: press)

The last stop on the bespoke tour was Marini Calzature, who is still making fine leather shoes the old fashioned way

The last stop on the bespoke tour was Marini Calzature, who is still making fine leather shoes the old fashioned way

(Image credit: press)

Marcello Mastroianni's shoe form at Marini Calzature

Marcello Mastroianni's shoe form at Marini Calzature

(Image credit: press)

Akta Roma Caterina Gatta Be Blue Be Balestra

Valentino may have cornered the market on the colour blue (its A/W 2012 catwalk was awash with the shade), but another legendary designer Renato Balestra was all about hue too. This year, Alta Roma asked 11 designers to create a work in homage to Balestra, like Caterina Gatta (left) and Marco Grisolia TK (right)

(Image credit: press)

The exhibit's theme of red carpet dressing was given a subtle nod with black platforms lined with red LEDs

The power set for Silvia Fendi's Limited/Unlimited Exhibit inside the Hadrian Temple was designed by Milan based Creative Director Susanna Cucco. The exhibit's theme of red carpet dressing was given a subtle nod with black platforms lined with red LEDs

(Image credit: press)

Nino Lettieri's black tulle and embroidered georgette gown (Left) and Valentino's printed sheer lace dress

Fendi called upon fashion's biggest names like Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace as well as younger designers like Fausto Puglisi and Aquilano Rimondo to provide their most high-impact red carpet designs. Here are two of our favourites:  Nino Lettieri's black tulle and embroidered georgette gown (Left) and Valentino's printed sheer lace dress

(Image credit: press)

'There are eyes in the darkness' exhibition at Monitor gallery in Via Sforza Cesarini

'There are eyes in the darkness' exhibition at Monitor gallery in Via Sforza Cesarini.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

Clothing by Haans Nicholas Mott hangs in the Monitor gallery

Clothing by Haans Nicholas Mott hangs in the Monitor gallery.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

'Dalla macchina alla mano' exhibit at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch in Vicolo Sforza Cesarini

'Dalla macchina alla mano' exhibit at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch in Vicolo Sforza Cesarini.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

Jewellery by Stefania Lucchetta featured at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

Jewellery by Stefania Lucchetta featured at Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

Haitan-born Rome based Stella Jean presented a collection that mashed-up African textiles, Navajo fur, and Andes jacquards

Haitan-born Rome based Stella Jean presented a collection that mashed-up African textiles, Navajo fur, and Andes jacquards

(Image credit: press)

Clothes by Conny Groenewegen featured at Il Ponte Contemporanea gallery in Via di Panico

Clothes by Conny Groenewegen featured at Il Ponte Contemporanea gallery in Via di Panico.

(Image credit: Gianni Catani / L. Sorrentino)

The Alchemy N.7 installation at Il Ponte Contemporanea

The Alchemy N.7 installation at Il Ponte Contemporanea

(Image credit: press)

La pelle del quotidiano' di Sissi at Spazio Innocenzo X in Via dell'Anima

La pelle del quotidiano' di Sissi at Spazio Innocenzo X in Via dell'Anima.

(Image credit: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa / L.Sorrentino)

The cocktail party at Spazio Innocenzo X

The cocktail party at Spazio Innocenzo X.

(Image credit: Ariel Gabriel La Rosa / L.Sorrentino)

Designer Camilla Stipa launched her Kamo collection for the first time during last year's Alta Roma. The sandals are all handmade using Roman and Florentine artisans

Designer Camilla Stipa launched her Kamo collection for the first time during last year's Alta Roma. The sandals are all handmade using Roman and Florentine artisans

(Image credit: press)

JJ Martin