The Judges Awards

09.5 Raf Simons
by Raf Simons, A/W 09

There are many reasons Raf Simons is considered one of fashion's most influential designers. Firstly, his collections are as much about visual provocation as they are about cerebral stimulus. (You never just watch a Simons show, rather, you participate in it) Secondly, in his 15-year career, he has challenged menswear conventions with his structural shapes, innovative fabrics and boundary-pushing design. And thirdly, just when you think you've finally got into his head, he goes around and turns everything upside down, just as he did with his striking and powerful autumn/winter collection. The first exit was nothing short of the most perfectly cut, traditional two-button suit, topped off with a classic overcoat and a slim tie. It was classic and yet somehow revolutionary. Simons said backstage that the collection was a return to where he started. 'I think the suit is too passive. I wanted to turn it into something energetic.' As the collection progressed, the energy became palatable. Simons built upon the pristine suit by beefing up the arms and cinching in the waist. He paired camel coats with neonpunctuated training shoes and layered suit jackets with shrugs, often made out of neoprene. The silhouette was fresh, strong and reflected in Simons what we've come to expect – the unexpected.

Creative director: Raf Simons
Joined brand: 1995
Based: Antwerp
Key features: Pinstriped suiting and officewear; grey-lapelled camel coats; oversized neoprene shoulder pads and shrugs; boldly coloured sleeves

View more images
www.rafsimons.com

Categories