The Judges Awards

08.4 Maison
Martin Margiela,
A/W 09

Like many creative businesses, the atelier at Maison Martin Margiela is focusing on essentials. Of course, not in the V-neck sweater and pencil skirt kind of way, but in dramatically silhouetted pieces that would define oneself boldly yet not bullishly in a crowd. Consider perennial favourites, such as the biker jacket, cut in thin white leather with strong shoulders; or a winter coat cut with sleeves slashed from wrist to shoulder; or an evening trench in lacquer-black silk with tantalising cuts at the clavicle and waist. Wide-flaring, high-waisted trousers and a power-shouldered bodysuit were the proposition for day, with an ingenious new cover-up for evening in the shape of a dot-embroidered cocoon of tulle – dramatic, yet a whisp of a nothing to pack.

Brand founded: 1988
Based: Paris
Key features: Dramatic pieces with bold silhouettes; a white leather biker jacket; slash-sleeved winter coats; a lacquer-black evening trench; wide, high-waisted trousers; power shoulders

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www.maisonmartinmargiela.com

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