The Judges Awards

08.1 Comme des Garçons by
Rei Kawakubo,
A/W 09

In her intuitive, mischievous way, Rei Kawakubo kept two thirds of her collection under wraps - or, to be more precise, under delicate, flesh-coloured tulle wraps that swagged over jackets, peeped under hemlines and snuggled over dresses like a second skin. The 'work in progress', 'yet to be revealed' conceit brought a sense of suspense to a collection that was all about layers, half-seen garments and trompe l'oeil effects. When pieces did get a full exposure, they were elegant in a hobo-like way – think tapestry-print blanket coats with padded lapels, khaki capes with big pockets, shrunken jackets and gilets, and handkerchief-point blanket-check skirts slung round skinny baroque-print leggings. For evening, she unveiled the prettiest pearl-embroidered cocktail dresses in ivory silk-crêpe – silhouettes gently squished beneath the upper layers of tulle.

Creative director: Rei Kawakubo
Founded brand: 1969
Based: Tokyo
Key features: Multiple layers, all wrapped up in peach tulle; shrunken jackets; blanket coats; khaki capes; blanket-check skirts; silk-crêpe cocktail dresses

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