The Judges Awards

09.2 Calvin Klein Collection
by Italo Zucchelli, A/W 09

Although, after his autumn/winter show for Calvin Klein Collection, designer Italo Zucchelli would say the choice of music was unintentional – the opening bars to West Side Story – the soundtrack proved remarkably appropriate for the brand’s New York City homecoming. After years of presenting in Milan, Zucchelli and Calvin brass decided it was time to take the modern American label back to it roots, both literally and figuratively. Zucchelli, who was recently honoured as menswear designer of the year by the Council of American Fashion Designers, advanced his singular take on the body and fabric research. Rather than go with alltechy fabrics, he focused on one technique (usually used for bicycle-seat padding) and bonded material to moulded foam. The result was slightly otherworldly, but also completely Calvin Klein. The suiting, a series of monochromatic greys and inks, displayed Zucchelli's keen understanding of proportion. Peppered in the mix were flat, cylindrical rivets used as closures and soft leather bombers. The collection, to take a riff from the Jets, was 'Crazy, cool.'

Creative director: Italo Zucchelli
Joined brand: 2000, became creative director in 2004
Based: New York
Key features: A slim, masculine fit emphasising the body; traditional and hi-tech fabric combinations; sports jackets in heat-bonded foam; a largely restrained palette

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