This week, Wallpaper’s Nick Vinson will be reporting from the men’s shows in Milan, exclusively on Wallpaper.com, not only highlighting key styles from the catwalks but also giving us the inside track on the fashion pack's comings and goings. Today, we look at offerings from Prada, Bottega Veneta, Emporio Armani, Neil Barrett and Alexander McQueen.
Prada
Miuccia Prada collaborated with Rem Koolhaas and his Office for Metropolitan Architecture to create the show set (pictured above). Undulating walls made of orange lacquer formed a U shape, creating a space within a space inside the cavernous post-industrial show venue that doubles up as the Prada Foundation (you'd be forgiven for mistaking it for an art installation). The runway, poured onto the floor in a haphazard manner, was made of black resin while the seating was white foam cubes. The genius of the set resulted in high expectations and Mrs Prada did not disappoint (the post-show verdict was universally positive). Strong and daring, she combined feminine haute couture elements with more masculine-like webbed nylon, protective armbands, and chromed plates (as wide buckles on belts and bags). The show opened with teddy bear 'fur mohair' oversized knitwear in colours like vanilla, quartz and nube ('cloud' to those in the know).
Wool tailoring in black and dark grey was cut from woven cloth specially developed for Prada, while a degrade effect in the weave changed not only the colour but also the texture.
Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta
For Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier went for a broken-in sensibility, working the surface structure of fabrics. Working cloth, a little like the way Bottega Veneta's artisans tan and treat the leather, he laundered, aged, reversed and reduced it to give a soft and dense hand and an ease of wear that men will appreciate. Getting the Maier treatment were British milled wools, loden, camel hair and lightweight double-faced cashmere. Leathers and skins were worked until supple, like wrinkled nappa, and sheared shearling and goatskin. As usual his palate was the most raffinato (refined) in Milan, this time with iron grey, bronze, taupe, camel, parchment and lots of black (no doubt a lot of work went in to getting it perfect too). Best of all were his coats (pea, duffle and blousons), simple in detail, they were standouts for their cut and the beauty of the fabrication.
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani presented his Emporio collection in a Tadao Ando-designed theatre. The combination of black and dark blue, which seems to be a strong trend in Milan currently, dominated this show. Mixing tailored elements with sportswear, the collection was referred to as 'Techno' in the program notes. Keeping his man metropolitan yet active and sporty, Armani mixed high-tech effects and materials with more classic detailing and natural fabrics. Another major trend seen practically everywhere is quilting and wadding. At Armani, quilted leather, nylon and velvet were used in novel pants and jackets, in tailored and more sporty styles. A new range of skiwear and snowboards (produced in association with specialists Burton) was launched for the EA7 range, Emporio's technical sportswear collection.
Neil Barrett
Apart from five exits with flashes of camel, Milan-based Brit Neil Barrett worked entirely in black, white and grey (save for silver for the odd glove, shoe or jean) resulting in a strong show that was both minimal and graphic. His models looked slick and believable even with their high bowler-style hats (also seen at Bottega Veneta). Barrett called his show 'Amish Punk', mixing inspiration from the Amish (neat pressed suits and hats) with a refined reworking of punk (zip detailing and holed knits). The starched and pressed shirts were often collarless and bibbed, grandad style, worn with shorter, boxier jackets and waistcoats (a major trend). Barrett also shown some great jeans, in oiled or pressed denim.
Alexander McQueen
It was funny to see a whole lot of fashionistas leaving their limos and heading down into Milan's subway. But that was exactly what they did for Alexander McQueen, who chose the Porta Venezia station as his show venue. Many may not have appreciated that the station was designed by Wallpaper's favourite living octogenarian, Milan-based architect Angelo Mangiarotti. The station provided an excellent backdrop for McQueen's strong show inspired by Christopher Lambert in Highlander and Lex Luther in Superman. Models with slick and sculpted locks and what seemed to be mirrored contact lenses strode the runway, accompanied by the sound of trains coming and going. Best were some combination materials: traditional cloths with techo sportswear, and fabrics like satin and felt bonded to neoprene on coats.
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It’s not all about the shows, you know. Here’s Nick’s guide to the hottest spot, shop and style of the day.
Spot: Princi bakery
Since Monday's schedule did not allow time for a sit-down lunch, the new Claudio Silvestrin-designed Princi bakery, near the Duomo, for focaccia, was perfect for lunch on the run.
Shop: Alberto Aspesi
Milan's fashion week visitors got their first chance to stock up on Alberto Aspesi's superb sportswear in his brand-new store designed by Antonio Citterio & Partners and London-based art director Dirk Van Doren of Tomato. Aspesi was the winner of the Wallpaper* Design Award for Best New Store.
Style: the waistcoat
The waistcoat is appearing everywhere on the runways; quilted at Burberry, under practically every suit at Bottega Veneta, on its own at Dolce & Gabbana and at Neil Barrett who has been championing it for a few seasons now.
