Books

Erotic Publishing: Agent Provocateur
Agent Provocateur's erotic miniature, 69. A flip-sided volume with a pink half, featuring titillating tales of the boudoir; and a slightly more sinister black half, with tales of a somewhat darker nature

Erotic Publishing: Agent Provocateur

Books

 

The third installment of our month long tryst into the low-lit world of erotic publishing comes from Joe Corre - founder and director of Agent Provocateur.

Starting out with a few collectable catalogues over a decade ago, Corre and his team of creatives have gone on to produce a staggering range of books, magazines and catalogues, all of which have become a key to Agent Provocateur's inimitable identity.

Where does your love for erotica stem from?
It’s hard to say, I’ve been in the business for so long. I originally worked in my mothers company, Vivienne Westwood, for 8-9 years, but eventually had to think what it was that I really wanted to do, and what I really love - and I came to the conclusion that I’ve always loved women’s underwear. I’m fascinated by, and jealous of, women’s ability to dress up, and I suppose ultimately that I’m fascinated by the exoticism and mystery of sex.

Mumur
See more of Agent Provocateur's additions to erotic publishing

AP’s catalogues and campaigns garner a huge amount of press and have, in a short space of time, achieved a cult following – why do you think this is?
The campaigns have become an integral part of the culture of the brand. When we started in 1994 we couldn’t afford a thing – we put the company together with a few savings and couldn’t even think about advertising – we had to think creatively. Eventually our windows became our campaigns, which we would catalogue and sell to collectors. We had to create a story – I think it’s fair to say that the first viral marketing strategy came from Agent Provocateur.

What is it about the presentation that makes even the most graphic of photographs seem like art rather than smut?
  I don’t know, it’s definitely a fine line. I don’t really mind a bit of smut but I don’t like things that look cheap – there needs to be a sense of quality. To maintain quality we need to be creative and the creative people that come to AP love working for us because of the freedom we afford them. It’s all about seduction – smoke and mirrors.

How do you feel the brand developed since you started out?
  We started with one store and now we have 45, along with our burgeoning fragrance and Internet business’. We’ve really managed to put lingerie onto the fashion map whilst maintaining our specialist pedigree. In terms of the company, we’ve also managed to retain a sense of family and personality.

At what stage did you realise there might be room for a publishing arm under the brand?
  In the early days we used to sell our catalogues in store and that was hugely popular. We’ve always had a book, magazine or catalogue out, promoting what we’ve been doing. What with our Kate Moss collaboration and our erotic short stories we’ve now got hundreds of publications under our belt – and they’re still hugely popular.

Why do you think female erotica is attractive to women and men but male erotica only has a relatively small market?
  Because women are better looking? I think a woman can look at another woman’s body as a thing of beauty where as men generally look at other men as an object of threat – unless they’re gay that is. Men are visceral whereas women are more interested in the dialogue of sex and seduction.

Has the Internet changed people’s attitudes towards sex and erotica do you think?
  I’m not a big user of the Internet. I only use it as a tool and for that it obviously has amazing advantages. But in many ways the Internet has become a God. It has become the only means of research or discovery for a lot of people, and it’s just too fast and blasé – it doesn’t reach the root of anything, for me it has marked the end of organic discovery and the excitement that that brings.

What are you planning next?
Well, we’re working on our next campaign, set to launch in September and we’ve got new collections in the pipeline at all times. We’ve recently launched our couture Soiree range, exclusive pieces designed purely for the Kinky and rich – they’re still out there believe it or not.

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